Brazil: The Trip of a Life Time

A young person’s diary

Friday, 18th June 2004
Today is the day I leave for Brazil all by myself. My flight is at 11.45 am and checking in takes two hours due to the long queue and so-called increased safety since all the terrorism alerts. Thank god I don’t live far from Heathrow Airport. I am changing flights in Lisbon to fly to Salvador da Bahia and really excited because I have already checked in with my electronic ticket but my flight is delayed, and now I am kind of worried because my connection is in just two hours and a half.

Hours later I have arrived in Lisbon but have to go straight to my Salvador airplane. My flight from England was fine, no problems at all and no problems with customs either. The plane had loads of football fans on it going to watch their country play. It’s Euro 2004 and football is a big deal. I think Greece is playing today because across from me, I could see the Greek national flag. I am very tired and aim to sleep all the way until we reach Salvador. There is a woman waiting for us at the door (meeting connecting flights), so I don’t have to go through customs again. Hep! I am very tired. I so look forward to being in Brazil and having a new experience without anyone that I know at all because I think that it’s the most amazing thing that could happen to me.

Saturday, 19th June 2004
I am now a volunteer in Brazil for the next five weeks! What I know of Brazil is that it is home to the Amazon River, the second largest river in the world. I’ve also heard of the Amazon jungle plus Brazil apparently puts on the best carnival in the world. Can’t believe I am here because Brazil is somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit but never actually believed I’d ever get the opportunity.

Last night when the plane landed I sailed though customs. I could tell straight away that I was in Brazil – it’s true what people say: Brazilians are really friendly and always smiling. I got picked up by the driver and though the journey was long, it was at night and there was hardly any traffic. I am the first person in Ondina house. I was very much welcomed by Gerson and Roseani. Gerson is a security guard and Roseani looks after the house if we ever need help, from emergencies to food.

I have now met all the other young people on the same placement as me: Khalia is from Maryland (20 years old); Jessica is from California (also 20); Meredith is from California (24 years old); Carly is from Maryland (17 years old) and arrived with John (20 years old) who is from Massachusetts. Thomas (20 years old) is from Brazil but he goes to school in the US. Julie (20 years old) is from Chicago and Ashley (21 years old) is from New York. I am surrounded by Americans! Thomas is really fascinated by the Royal family - which I am not! It feels really strange sleeping in a bed that is not mine… but it’s mine for the next five weeks.

Today I also got to meet the placement staff: Grace, Dilma, Francisco, Maisa, Carmen and Walikira. Grace is someone who helps us if we have any problems and is lovely. Francisco is a security guard who used to play for Bahia Football Club when he was in his prime. Unfortunately my Portuguese is not the best in the world but I will learn more each day. Maisa is the cook but luckily not everyday – at least the staff are off once a week. Carmen is the manager of the house and Walikira is the programme manager. She used to work for the Peace Corps in the 70’s and also lived in the States for some twenty odd years.

Sunday, 20th June 2004
Today we all went to the touristy area of town called Pelourinho. Bahia is made up of hills and valleys and as the city sits on a huge bay, called Baia de Todos os Santos (the Bay of All Saints) everyone describes the city in two parts: Upper City (Cidade alta) and Lower city (Cidade baixa).

We got on a bus and everyone kept staring at us as we were speaking in English but it was fine, I think! Thomas speaks Portuguese anyway. When we arrived at the place, many street vendors realised that we were tourists and came up, wanting us to buy their jewellery. They even have a bracelet that you are supposed to make a wish with and keep until it falls off your wrist! Thomas started speaking to this woman who said that she had not eaten and her children are hungry at home. True or not (I know it could be true) Thomas bought three necklaces and gave me one for free (I did not come all the way to Brazil to blow the little money I have on necklaces.)

Ashley and Jessica left to go and explore the city whilst Khalia, Carly, Julie, John, Thomas and I remained together. A man who gives tours round the city came up to Thomas and asked him if we wanted a guided tour…and it was 25 Brazilian Reals (about US$ 9). We said no (I am here for five weeks so I can do the tour in my own time and find out the history of Salvador myself).

We walked for hours, taking pictures of the city and the group. I got way too tired, so we sat down and checked the view from the Upper City all the way to the Lower City. Looking out over the bay it is absolutely amazing…so beautiful.

We finally went back to the house and prepared ourselves some food before visiting Ondina beach. All the girls wore bikinis (I can’t believe that I was wearing a bikini)…I mean they all look so beautiful and there was me looking like fried egg! Yes me, the girl with all the confidence…or not. I was the first person to go in to the ocean though! It was very cold and salty, and I tried to be like Halle Berry from the latest Bond film. Then I went and sat next to this old man, I didn’t realise but he happened to be eating liver. I can’t remember his name because the names here are very long but I think he was a Carlos or a Fabio.

Ashley and I walked off to explore the beach (it was only five minutes from the house). She is very nice and a beautiful person; she goes to New York University. It was sunset by the time we got back. People in this house go to bed very early; at 9 pm everyone was in bed.

Monday, 21st – Saturday, 26th June 2004
On Monday we were told that we were going to the countryside for the Sao Joao (St. John) festival in Amargosa. During the first orientation week I got very homesick and it took me a couple of days to adjust to the climate and the time difference (Brazil is four hours ahead of England). I just started missing everything I do in London - football and everyday things that I now realise I took for granted. I just wanted to go home but kept thinking how so many people had helped me raise the money I needed to go on this placement. I couldn’t just quit although I really wanted to. Cross-Cultural Solutions has two houses in Brazil and the main one located in Graca is bigger and it can have up to 30 people living in it at any one time, imagine that. I liked the fact that there were only nine of us living at Ondina House.

The journey to Amargosa was very beautiful. The place where we were going to stay was owned by one of Walikira’s friends. It was very peaceful and soothing and I rode horses. I also played football with the local children and am so glad I didn’t end up going back to London early. It’s traditional at this festival for all family and friends to gather together, in the small town. Everyone celebrates with loads of different foods and shows. There was a drink called licor de genipapo (sweet liquor made from the genipapo fruit), bonfires, and firecrackers. It’s a small town where people gather to party! Drinks were just flowing everywhere. Ashley got drunk and most of us were tipsy. Thomas had an admirer and he was also getting his groove on.

Thursday, 1st July 2004
Today Ashley and I started teaching English in one of the shantytowns, in a community called Baixa da Alegria (translates to Area of Happiness). Everyone knew each other especially the children and this is a community that is very close knit. The children have so little but they are always smiling and very interested to know why we had travelled across the world to teach them English and play with them. I wanted to enrich their lives in any way I could. Carly and Julie did recreational play stuff with children under the age of eleven years old whilst Khalia worked in the nursery, although we were all working in the same community. Khalia’s nursery is funded by a private school not far away from the shantytown.

My first observation was that the education system in Brazil needs a serious looking at – often school didn’t start until 12.30 in the afternoon! But having said that I really loved the fact there were so many activities for the kids to do: they could play football, volleyball and surf as the ocean is not far away. When we were introduced to them they were really surprised that Ashley and I were 18 and 21 years old. There were two classes: the older group was from 8.30 -10.00 am and the younger group ran at 10.00-11.30 am but if it rains no one turns up.

Friday, 2nd July 2004
The children I am teaching have put me to shame. Their eager attendance and enthusiasm makes me regret throwing away the chance I had to learn a second language – a chance given to me and provided free by the UK government. Over here, the children depend on volunteers like me each year, coming to their community. In Brazil everyone has to pay for education until the age of 18, after which it becomes free. So the middle class can pay for their children’s education and then they get free education after 18 years of age, whilst the youngsters here will never be able to access the education system and won’t be able to go on to university or college to further their abilities, even though it would be free by then. The community I am working in is badly in need of basics like education and healthcare and the volunteering scheme in Salvador is so popular that children from other towns sometimes make a trip just to visit.

Saturday, 3rd July 2004
It’s Thomas’s last week in the programme then he’s going to see his family in Sao Paolo. John is having major back problems at the moment – he’s like 20 years old and already has back problems, I can’t believe it. Thomas is such a huge fan of Spiderman, that on his last night we went and watched the film. We arrived at Aeroclube (where the cinema was) and it’s like one of those shopping malls in America. The film didn’t end until 12.30 am. It was raining really heavily and after, we kept going around in circles because Thomas kept talking to very single bus driver. I was not too happy because I was freezing cold. We finally found a bus that took us back to Ondina.

It was still raining and Thomas loved the film and he kept talking about it all the way home! He was like a 13 year old kid but we arrived safely back to our house. Khalia says Gerson is a bit fresh and what she means is that he thinks he can have any woman he wants. Yeah right! We watched his TV (Brazilian MTV), which was hard for me because it’s in a different language but the good thing about it was that Brazilians feel free to talk about just about anything. There was a slot where people would just call in to talk about their sexual problems. Imagine that! Back home parents would probably be ringing in to complain. I ended up sleeping downstairs.

Sunday, 4th July 2004
American Independence Day! Thomas left yesterday. Some of us in the group said that he lacked social skills but he was such a nice boy. Certain things can happen if you have not had a settled life and on top of that he was bullied in school. In my opinion you have to feel compassion for people (though you may not always get on). He has lived around the world and doesn’t have a place that he can really call home, that was my personal conclusion. Today I was so tired and very lazy. Even the security guard called Renato said that I was very lazy but I didn’t really care because I was so tired. I went to watch football with Josh who I really get on with. It was Greece versus Portugal and my future husband Cristiano Ronaldo was playing for Portugal! He looked really sexy but they lost and he cried (he is only 19 yrs old). You win some and you lose some. It is so hot here and this is supposed to be their winter.

Khalia has gone on a date with Antonio Carlos, an 18 yr old Brazilian. We met him whilst out walking – Gerson happened to be on security duty today. We then see this sexy looking Brazilian. (I have a boyfriend who is very good looking but I don’t see a problem with just looking) Khalia and I glance at each other like 13 year old teenagers; it was really funny because Gerson can’t speak a word of English, but somehow he knew that we thought Antonio was sexy! Khalia and I wanted to give him the number for the house because we were like love struck teenagers, can you believe it at 18 and 20 years old? Khalia spoke to him because her Portuguese is much better than mine.

That’s how Khalia ended up going to the zoo - Antonio said that he would show her animals that she had never before seen in the world. We told Grace and she was like "you girls have to keep safe". Khalia was not asked to pay for anything at all on her date. That’s my girl! It’s also a custom in Brazil for women to be looked after by the men, and seems to be a natural thing – perhaps some men in England should start considering this?! Grace said that after three dates with a Brazilian guy you are considered their girlfriend. I am really enjoying Brazil so much now, I don’t want to go back home to England at all. Its not that I hate the country but it’s like going back to the same things and I certainly don’t want that at all, to be honest.

Monday, 5th July 2004
It rained so much this morning that Grace arranged for us to be given a lift to our placements today by a driver called Adriano. Teaching was great but one child really drove me crazy with frustration. I think they are getting used to us now. But even if they don’t behave at least they have the time to come and learn a new language. I love the children; okay they can be a pain but isn’t everyone at some point in life. I really admire them because they don’t have a lot but they are always smiling and happy. I also love the fact that beaches in Salvador are not private because this means that the children can enjoy them. I love the fact that there is such a community spirit too and all the children seem to look after each other. Today I was teaching the children about family and dialogue. A boy called Fillip said that he had six brothers and no sisters and everyone in the class said that he was lying! I love that – where I come from no one knows about you and sometimes, you don’t even know your next door neighbour.

I don’t appreciate the way the education system is messed up here and the public schools aren’t equipped like private schools are. We also had a guest speaker come and talk to us about the education system in Brazil. Seeing a doctor is free but you get far more basic medicine, and not everyone can get it. One thing I love about Salvador is that African heritage has been kept alive and thriving despite the days of slavery and colonialism. An estimated 1.3 million slaves were imported into Bahia before slavery was abolished in Brazil in 1888. That’s double the number imported into the entire United States of America. I can feel African soul in the food we eat like rice and beans.

Tuesday, 6th July 2004
Today was going to be like any other day but that all changed when I came downstairs and found Maisa, Dilma and Roseanne wearing uniforms. Usually they are always in a good mood in the morning but they didn’t want us to see their faces today. We all agreed to have a meeting (every Tuesday we have feedback meetings about the previous week).

We went to work but afterwards we all got to express our views. When I first arrived at the house none of the staff wore uniforms - and I saw everyone as human beings rather than formal staff workers. It helped form the group as a whole rather than that divided feeling of staff and volunteers. I also thought it a bit disrespectful because Maisa is a grandmother. Why should she have to wear a uniform? Walikira said that it’s very common in Brazil for people to wear uniforms, like cultural differences made everything okay. I felt it was a weak excuse. Anyway, the result of the meeting was that everyone agreed that they would forget about the uniforms! I think that Maisa, Dilma and Roseanne must have been pleased because they made us a cake that evening, saying how much we deserved it.

I love the way every time I speak in English, Maisa always says that I should speak in Portuguese! Me trying to speak broken Portuguese is just hilarious and I love them to death for encouraging me to just do it. Maisa is like our mother in Brazil.

Wednesday, 7th July 2004
Today I was really surprised because Julie and I got talking about how we didn’t feel pretty! It fascinated me that she could feel like me and I thought that I was the only one in the house who was a bit self conscious. She felt exactly like me. We got to talking about politics and things that affect us back home. I have a lot in common with Julie. When I first met her I had presumed we wouldn’t have anything in common so this just shows me how we shouldn’t judge a book by its cover.

Adriano said that I have an amazing personality and I shouldn’t lose it in any way because I am always laughing and causing trouble with Brazilian men/boys! I always tell people that I am a lesbian (the Portuguese word is fresco). This is one of the first words I ever learnt in Brazil. They know that I am lying but it’s always funny when I say it. Tonight Khalia and I are going to watch football (futebol) as it’s the American cup (copa America). Khalia and I went to this English school to ask for directions and we received a lift from these guys who spoke English. Every time Khalia and I go out we always end up making new friends. I can’t believe the sense of freedom that Brazil has given me. They dropped us off and we sat down to watch Brazil playing against Chile. Brazil won!

Saturday, 10th July 2004
I was very much on a downer today, feeling isolated and alone somehow. The longer I stay here the more I see how vast and extreme the poverty line in Brazil is. It is worse than I ever expected or imagined with children begging on the streets and most people just ignoring them. As an 18 year old it has broken my heart – I’ve never seen this kind of poverty in my life. Social issues like poverty, unemployment, housing shortages (many children live their lives on the streets), and a decaying educational system make life so hard here. I visited two men in the advanced stages of AIDS and it broke my heart again. In Bahia many villages don’t have basic sanitation, infant mortality rates are high and half the population is illiterate. The number of unemployed in the state has been estimated at around 30% of the adult population, while those who are paid earn less than £ 45 a month. Because of all this, most girls end up quitting their education to become house keepers at a young age.

Grace and I went out for dinner at her parent’s house. They were so kind to me and I met her beautiful children too. I can tell where Grace gets her generosity from. I spent the whole evening with her family and came back with a huge smile on my face. I was so tired and went to bed as early as I could.

Sunday, 11th July 2004
I woke up in a good mood and made eggs and plantain for everyone with Jessica’s help. Jessica thought that the gas was going to explode because we kept switching it on when it had finished. Francisco came to the rescue!

Monday, 12th July 2004
Working in the school is making me think in all kinds of different ways. I mean just a few weeks ago I felt so much stress that seemed just an ongoing part of my everyday life in London. Here I am now, sitting with these children who have nothing compared to me. Why and how did I let life in London get me down so much? I have family, books, a roof over my head, a toilet, toothbrush, soaps, excellent health care - and a life time of opportunities. Some of the children here have no family, no toys, no clothes or shoes and not very good health care.

Tuesday, 13th July 2004
Khalia and I always walk everywhere because it’s fun to do that rather than get on the bus or take a taxi - I take a taxi sometimes at night. We were walking today and these work men started whistling and I could not stop laughing! Don’t ask me why but Khalia was embarrassed to walk with me! In Brazil if a guy thinks that you are beautiful, he lets you know by whistling and you just ignore it (which I would do normally but didn’t today). Khalia thought that I was on drugs. I then stopped this poor boy that happened to be with his friend and called them over to just find out his name and age. He thought that I was 20 yrs old! I was flattered. His name was Fabio, 17 years old and not too young for me. I’m kidding! I just felt confident and carefree about myself today.

Wednesday, 14th July 2004
The community today threw a party because Ashley was leaving. The children were so sad about it and nobody wants her to go. They kept saying that if she ever goes back to Brazil she should always come back and visit them. The children are going to miss her so much because she has been a great English teacher. I will also miss her because we worked well together and it was great fun. I felt like I was losing someone on this experience with me whose company I really enjoyed. I am glad that I was teaching with Ashley because she was a fantastic person to be with, and we had a laugh. Now I want to go to New York to meet up with her again.

Monday, 19th July 2004 – Friday, 23rd July 2004
We had fun during our last week; we went out at night to this nice restaurant and this cool bar. On Friday 23rd July I am leaving and Maisa stayed behind to see me off. I will certainly miss everyone. I have met such amazing people, learnt so much (about myself too) and made friends for a lifetime. I enjoyed each single moment to the full. I want to keep in touch with everyone. I will never forget the warmth of the staff: Maisa, Dilma, Roseanne, Grace, Carmen and Viviane, and Renato, Gerson and Francisco. The children were just loveable and so inspiring. I will miss them so much that I don’t want to go back to England. If I end up doing the same things as I did before I came to Brazil it would be foolish because what would be the point of this entire experience?

Salvador will always have a special place in my heart. It’s the oldest city in Brazil and its first capital, was a major slave trade post and is now a thriving area filled with Afro-Brazilian life. I’ve watched Capoeira (an African martial art that incorporates music and dance), and walked down streets that have been filled with dancing and music. I’ve worked side-by-side with local people (and a bunch of mad Americans!) to help achieve various community aims. I’ve learnt that volunteers of all ages can inspire and encourage children to discover their own self-value and confidence. Teaching the alphabet, writing, participating in arts and crafts, playing sports, learning how to use a computer are just some of the ways that children can be supported. Simply talking about different ways of life and forming friendships also helps because in many of the local organizations I worked with, the local staff didn’t have the time to build activities or relationships with individual at-risk children. For the children, knowing that people care about them, even if it’s just in a smile or a hug, gives them something lasting that I know for a fact goes a long way. All you need is an open heart.

In fact I’ve decided I will come back to Brazil next year to do the same thing if I can, because I believe that my work is not finished with the children and especially with Salvador. I’d like to thank everybody who sponsored me to go; it meant the world to me.

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